By Jeff Silverstein
It’s hard to believe it was just over a year ago that Hurricane Melissa made landfall on the island of Jamaica.
The devastation, and the images are hard to forget.
But after a recent visit to Half Moon, one of Jamaica’s most storied and legendary luxury resorts, I can happily report that out of the tragedy has emerged a country, and a resort that is stronger than ever.
After a massive rebuilding effort that saw 57 beachfront rooms restored and many other major upgrades including a spectacular infinity-edge pool and 11 reimagined villas, this iconic 400-acre Montego Bay property has once again firmly established its place at the pinnacle of Caribbean hospitality.
When the storm made landfall and wreaked widespread damage, it was one of the most painful chapters in the country’s history. The Category 5 storm caused a staggering US$12.2bn in damage, more than half of Jamaica’s GDP and forced widespread hotel closures, particularly along the north coast.
For Half Moon, the damage was not insignificant, but after navigating a thoughtful and sweeping restoration, the resort has entered an exciting new chapter of renewal, emerging more resilient and prestigious than ever.
As devastating as it was, in the end Hurricane Melissa brought the country, and the resort together in ways that only Jamaicans could pull off.
In those early days after the hurricane, it wasn’t obvious this was how it would work out. At Half Moon, it was all hands-on deck, with the resort focused squarely on two things – securing its physical assets – some of the buildings sustained structural damage – and looking after its 800-plus staff, many of whom have worked here for more than 25 years.
“It reminded me of that famous Charles Dickens line, ‘It was the best of times, it was the worst of times,’ said Kevyn Cunningham, head of Half Moon’s golf program. “The tragedy actually brought us closer together – managers, department heads, we all got stuck in there.”
Domenique Mitchell, Half Moon’s marketing specialist, put it this way: “The concept of a village is how we were raised. Our mothers, our grandmothers, our aunts, they all encouraged us to be that way.”
After securing its assets and undertaking a widespread cleanup, Half Moon set about interviewing every one of its staff to assess their own situation. If their homes were damaged, building materials were provided along with other supports.
A massive relief effort also kicked into gear with over $500,000 raised from guests, the ownership group, the board, and the management team. It was a painstaking and thorough process, but it says everything you need to know about Half Moon.
This is a resort with some serious pedigree, and a recognition that without community, and the people who work here, it wouldn’t be what it is today.
Shernette Crichton, Half Moon’s Managing Director, underscored that pride, and the human dimension of the rebuilding effort this way: “Hurricane Melissa came through Western Jamaica like a thief in broad daylight and took things from us that we never imagine we could lose…But look around today, every team member here is proof that Melissa did not get the last word.”
During our four-night stay, we not only experienced the magic of Half Moon, but we were genuinely moved by the warmth and hospitality of the staff, as well as their resilience and the culture that has been built up over the years with guests and the people who work here.
I must admit that I wasn’t expecting to come away so moved by a resort experience. I’m generally not a resort kind of guy. But Half Moon is not your average kind of resort.
This is a place that oozes history and has helped define the luxury resort experience in the Caribbean. Ever since its founding in 1954, this slice of paradise has served as a tropical playground for the rich and famous.
Just before assuming the Oval Office, John F. Kennedy and Jacqueline Kennedy vacationed here in the 1950s. Jackie O. even penned part of her will on resort stationery while staying in one of the oceanfront cottages.
The resort has also hosted members of the Royal Family on numerous occasions, including Queen Elizabeth II, Prince Philip, Prince Charles (now King Charles III), and Prince Harry who first came here on his own and stayed in Villa 85 made a surprise appearance on the red carpet with Meagan Markle for the release of the biopic Bob Marley: One Love which premiered in Kingston in 2024.
Meagan, I’m told, was a big fan of the resort’s jerk sauce.
It’s no surprise that heads of state, movie stars, professional athletes and A listers keep returning. There’s something here for everyone that only the luxury of space can provide.
The resort, which manages to never feel crowded, is split into three distinct accommodation experiences – Founders Cove, Eclipse, and the Villas – all with access to the entire resort no matter where you stay.
The Villas at Half Moon – a collection of expansive and tasteful five, six, and seven-bedroom private stand-alone villas each with private pool, outdoor living space, and dedicated staff including a butler, housekeeper and cook – are perfect for multi-generational families, many of whom have been coming here for decades.
Think white glove service that instead of being sterile is authentic in a way that only Jamaicans can deliver.
These ultra exclusive villas are also perfect for golfers who come here year after year to golf at Half Moon’s historic 18-hole, par-72 championship course designed by the legendary Robert Trent Jones, Sr., or Cinnamon Hill Golf Course and White Witch Golf Course– all within a five-mile radius of Half Moon.
For its part, Eclipse at Half Moon has undergone a fresh, elevated design refresh and is ideal for millennials and young families in search of something more contemporary and modern.
This is the contemporary heart of the resort featuring modern rooms and suites, an infinity-edge swimming pool, a natural swimming cove, multiple restaurants and bars, and Fern Tree, a Salamander Spa that is widely regarded as one of the most prestigious wellness centres in the Caribbean.
Founders Cove, the historic and iconic end of the property, has carefully preserved its Caribbean mid-century vibe with charming cottages and sunset views, and is perfect for those looking for a dose of old-world charm with modern touches.
There’s an attention to detail here across the entire resort that is unmatched that comes in large part to the fact that despite its size, this has remained an owner-operated property since its inception in 1954 when a group of 17 prominent businessmen purchased 35 acres of land on a crescent-shaped bay that in a former life served as the sugar shipping dock for the historic Rose Hall estate.
The original investors reads like a “Who’s Who” of mid-century industry and design titans – Harvey Firestone, Jr (of the Firestone Tire and Rubber Company), Donald Deskey (the iconic designer responsible for New York City’s Radio City Music Hall), Richard Reynolds (of Reynolds Metals/Aluminum), Mrs. Lawrence Armour (of the American meatpacking giant Armour Packing Company) and Curtis Steuart (a prominent oil and real estate entrepreneur).
At the time they built 17 cottages and 30 rooms. What is now Cottage 10 was featured prominently as Roger Moore’s hotel bungalow on the fictional island of San Monique in the 1973 James Bond movie Live and Let Die.
Eleven of those cottages remain, but now there is a total of 210 rooms and suites – the vast majority offering views of the Caribbean Sea – and 22 villas, and of those 17 original investors, three families remain in control.
While most iconic mid-century resorts like Half Moon were eventually swallowed up by multinational hotel conglomerates, what’s remarkable is Half Moon has managed to remain independent, a rare feat in modern luxury hospitality.
Three generations later, being owner-operated means decisions can still be made quickly, something that proved critical post Hurricane Melissa, but perhaps more importantly, it has helped to secure and foster a culture of family and sense of community that carries over to the entire staff.
Indeed, as soon as you set foot at Half Moon, you quickly realize that this is a place with some serious pedigree. But to its credit, it’s also not resting on its laurels.
Half Moon remains a dominant force in modern luxury travel and consistently ranks as the No. 1 Resort in Jamaica, holds a coveted Forbes Travel Guide 4-Star rating, and was named the Caribbean’s Leading Hotel at the World Travel Awards.
It helps that the location is also hard to beat. Less than 30 minutes drive from Sangster International Airport in Montego Bay, it feels like a world away. And no matter what direction you look, you have two beautiful views that frame the resort – the Caribbean Sea on one side and the lush hillsides of Jamaica on the other.
This is a place that celebrates family, community and quiet time, but it’s also a perfect playground for those in search of wellness and fitness.
The resort can pull this off this holistic approach to wellness by taking full advantage of its massive 400-acre estate and two miles of private beachfront. Half Moon effectively becomes an expansive playground of interconnected fitness trails backed up with world-class facilities.
For avid swimmers, set amidst the manicured tropical grounds of Founders Cove and close to the ocean suites, beach access, and easily accessible for guests across the broader 400-acre property is where you can find the Olympic-size lap pool – perfect for fitness swimming or relaxing laps and located right next to the family-friendly Hibiscus pool which features a swim-up bar.
Guests can run or walk a designated 5K loop directly through the property’s manicured paths and coastal trails, and because the property is so vast, the resort cleverly integrates movement into a stay with complimentary grab and go cruiser bikes scattered throughout the property for guests to cycle between amenities, the beach, and their rooms.
Trudy-Ann Morris who leads tailored training sessions at the resort’s fully updated fitness studio said it’s all about “ensuring people who come here on vacation maintain a healthy lifestyle even when on vacation.”
The newly modernized fitness centre features an extensive range of cardio and resistance training equipment as well as Olympic benches and free weights. Guests can also choose to supplement workouts with group fitness classes like yoga, Pilates, and water aerobics.
My wife and I did a functional training session with Trudy one morning that was one of the best guided workouts I’ve had. Trudy took us through our paces, making sure we had a full body workout that pushed us just far enough.
All too often a resort’s gym is an afterthought. That’s not the case here. This light filled space filled with inspiring lyrics from …and designed for purposeful movement and wellbeing is top notch and it’s where Vini Jr. (Vinicius Junior) and Jude Bellingham, the high-profile attacking duo for Real Madrid CF, recently worked out when they were at Half Moon.
Being an avid tennis player, one of my favourite amenities at Half Moon was the racquets facility that includes 7 tennis courts and 8 pickleball courts.
My wife and I had a private lesson one morning with the head pro, Rayne Russell, a former Jamaican champion who has followed in his father Richard Russell’s footsteps. Richard was a tennis icon in Jamaica.
Back in the late 1950s as Jamaica was approaching its Independence in 1962, tennis was not a big sport here. Cricket, football, and track were the sports that dominated. And Russell helped to put Jamaica on the global tennis map.
He played in all four Grand Slams, was inducted into the Black Tennis Hall of Fame, and served as the resort’s director of tennis for 25 years.
If you want to take advantage of this great facility, there are daily clinics, private lessons, and tournament play, and it’s highly recommended to book early if you are planning on being here over the Christmas break.
If you are looking for a great team-based workout, there’s a basketball court as well as beach volleyball, and then beyond the casual swimming lagoons and the gorgeous new infinity pool and Olympic-sized lap pool, there’s a marine watersports centre with kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, snorkeling, and scuba diving adding another cardio dimension to what’s available.
If you are visiting with young kids between the ages of three and 12, there’s a 22,000-square-foot outdoor village that focuses on active discovery, physical play, and interactive learning inspired by Jamaican folklore. There’s even a separate Hype Zone – an activity hub designed to engage teenagers with age-appropriate games and social sports.
For equestrian fans, Half Moon also boasts a world-renowned equestrian centre under the direction of Trina deLisser, an international show jumper and well-known animal welfare activist.
Trina founded the stables more than four decades ago and under her leadership, the centre now offers a wide range of activities from traditional riding and jumping to polo lessons.
In fact, one of the resort’s bucket-list experiences is where guests, after getting to know their horse on shore, experience a thrilling beach ride along Sunrise Beach and then swim bareback in the Caribbean Sea.
Trina’s passion for the protection of animals has also spawned a comprehensive horse-rescue program. She has even expanded this program to include dogs, and other animals in need of a home.
Trina’s horses, who she dubs “wellness instructors”, also offer weekly therapeutic rides for children and adults with special needs.
When I caught up with Trina, it was to experience something she has dubbed a Positive Empowerment Session. The idea is to learn to use body language to communicate with your horse without the use of traditional ropes and equipment – something that the legendary horse whisperer, Monty Roberts, who Trina is a disciple of, first advocated.
The idea is after an un-mounted session where Trina guides you through a series of exercises and role playing, there are three stages that follow in the ring.
At this point Trina is quick to remind me that horses are creatures of flight – they like to go. And their response to danger or anxiety is to gallop. So, when I first enter the ring, my job was to get its attention and respect by using body language to drive the horse forward, telling it what to do.
By establishing that I was in charge, I was able to gain its attention and respect. Then came the final step – establishing trust and walking side by side with the horse without holding on to it. And this is where the positive empowerment piece comes in, something Monte Roberts called joining up with the horse.
It was an incredibly moving experience, and it taught me that leadership is sometimes about being quiet and intuitive. Horses teach you that. Their heart rates are so big and wide they can extend that to you and it’s incredibly calming.
“This all started with me wanting to help people,” Trina says. “Many people have not recognized their own self power. The power they have in themselves to create themselves. And they go through life with a dismissive attitude that builds anxiety and lack of confidence. And down the road, if you have little self worth you can develop mental issues.”
Rounding out all these incredible experiences at Half Moon is one of the most celebrated culinary programs in the Caribbean backed up by a sustainability program that informs how the resort operates.
A dedicated farm-to-table philosophy weaves seasonal island produce and organic herbs grown in the resort’s own gardens along with fresh local seafood into all the menus. Fresh mint and lemongrass grown at the resort even finds its way into teas and different treatments at the Fern Tree spa.
There are several award-winning restaurants to choose from that offer up distinct culinary experiences that range from historic fine dining to relaxed oceanfront dining.
There’s Sugar Mill, frequently recognized as the Caribbean’s Best Hotel Restaurant and built around a historic 17th-century water mill. And Delmar, celebrated for its seafood and named by the World Culinary Awards as Jamaica’s best restaurant last year.
Perched elegantly right on the edge of the shore, Delmar features both indoor dining and an upscale outdoor deck designed to capture the ocean breeze and sweeping views of the Eclipse coastline.
We organized a private chef’s menu with Delmar right on Eclipse Beach and had the most romantic multi-course meal that was completely private, complete with a white-linen table set directly on the sand that included a dedicated butler service and a personal chef who managed the execution of the meal step-by-step, with wine pairings curated from the resort’s award-winning cellar.
And then there’s Hayward’s – a more casual, open-kitchen restaurant located in the Eclipse section.
Beach BBQs are a weekly staple every Friday evening, offering up an authentic beachside grill experience, and of course there’s Lester’s Bar, one of Montego’s best and named after the artist Michael Lester who moved to Jamaica in 1953 and whose relationship with Half Moon dates back to the resort’s earliest years.
The bar anchors the resort’s upscale Eclipse experience and offers up an extensive collection of rare Caribbean rums along with live entertainment. It also features many of Lester’s paintings which have helped shape Half Moon’s visual identity and remains its artistic heritage today.
Despite its size, Half Moon is always striving to be in unison with nature and preserve the environment for future generations. Coastal erosion in the Caribbean is a very real issue so during the restoration effort, care was taken to move things more inland.
And there’s the Hawksbill turtle nesting conservation program along the resort’s two miles of beachfront that they cordon off when female Hawksbills instinctively return to the exact tropical beaches where they were born to lay their eggs that is a cornerstone of the resort’s environmental stewardship.
There’s even a recycling program for cardboard and PET, with glass crushing, composting and wood chipping all on site. Solar panels have just been installed near the back of house and Half Moon’s extensive philanthropic footprint, and support of local communities is a core part of its corporate identity.
The Half Moon Founders Cup is annual golf tournament that serves as the resort’s premier fundraiser, with monies directed to local healthcare, children’s shelters, and regional development programs.
Some places just get it right, and Half Moon is one of those places. This is a resort with heart. And while I have many lasting memories of our time there, it’s the people, who are so incredibly good humoured, that left such a mark.
With the resort now fully back up on its feet, Half Moon is bigger and better than ever, but it’s the stories of gratitude, resilience and finding strength in community that emerged from the storm that speak to the culture at Half Moon and will stay with me for a lifetime.
